Neonatal Kitten Care

Neonatal kittens are those that range from 0-4 weeks in age. Their care differs significantly from independent kittens (those that can eat food and go to the bathroom on their own).

The following is a preliminary guide to caring for neonatal kittens.

Should you happen to find a kitten/ litter of kittens by themselves, the first thing to do would be to look for signs of a mother. There is no better person to care for the kittens than their mother. Do not dislocate the kittens or change their position unless their current area is obviously unsafe. Leave them where they are and watch for a mother. If you must change their position to make it safer for them, put them in an open, newspaper lined cardboard box with minimal handling, close to the place where you found them.

In case the mother fails to turn up, only then must you take them in and begin caring for them. Even then, keep watching for the mother for a couple of days in case she happens to return to the area, so that she may be reunited with her babies.

Step 1: Okay, now that you have a litter of kittens on your hands, the first thing to do would be to find out how old they are so that they can be adequately cared for. You can use the following chart to know their age and care pathways.

https://www.alleycat.org/resources/help-i-found-a-kitten-outdoors-poster/

In case they are older than 4-5 weeks they will be able to eat/drink and go to the potty on their own. If such is the case, their care is comparatively easy. You can use this link to refer to their care procedures.

If they are younger than 4 weeks, they won’t be able to eat/drink on their own even if food is placed in front of them, their ears may be small and/or folded to the sides of their heads and their eyes may not yet be opened. Such kittens are neonates. You can use the following chart to accurately determine their age.

http://www.kittenlady.org/age/

However, the care procedure for kittens aged different weeks is nearly the same until they can be weaned (switched from milk to solid food) and litter trained.

Step 2: Materials Required

·         A cardboard box/ crate to confine the kittens

·         Newspapers to line the crate

·         A hot water bottle/ heating pad

·         Soft tissues

·         Baby wipes

·         Kitten feeding bottle (human baby feeding bottles won’t work – they have too large nipples)

·         If you don’t have a feeding bottle: ink dropper/ syringe/ cotton bud will do

·         Boiled and cooled water (filtered/ aqua guard water will also do) or Pedialyte

·         KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) formula / PetLac / Semolac (diluted with water in a 2:1 ratio)

·         If you don’t have KMR the following can be used as an emergency formula:

1.      Mix 1 part each of pasteurized cow’s milk, water and plain yogurt with an egg yolk.

2.      Lactogen 1 (diluted as per instructions)

3.      Dilute Goats milk (1:1 ratio with water)

·         Supplementary syrups:

1.      Digyton (to help aid digestion) – 1-2 drops per kitten

2.      Immuolyte (to boost immunity) – 1-2 drops per kitten

3.      Proviboost (multivitamin) – 1-2 drops per kitten

Links to where you can purchase the items:

Kitten Formulas: https://www.amazon.in/Pet-Powder-Kittens-Cats-12Oz/dp/B0002ASS0M

https://www.dogspot.in/petag-petlac-milk-food-kittens-300-gm/

Feeding kits: https://www.dogspot.in/pet-nursing-kit/

https://in.miscota.com/cats/beaphar/lactol-feeding-set?r=8711231112449&gclid=CjwKCAjw8r_XBRBkEiwAjWGLlDOc6DqVDd9fuvcYSLKpSov2IMux2IAFARoa6mg1NVaIcC259SzPOxoCX0MQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Step 3: Ensure that the kittens are warm

Never feed a kitten that is cold to the touch or unresponsive. The priority when dealing with such kittens is to raise their body temperature, so that they feel warm to your hand.

This can be done by placing them on a hot water bottle that is wrapped in a towel, or by placing against your bare chest for a span of 7-10 minutes. Once the kitten feels sufficiently warm you can prepare the formula and begin feeding the kitten.

NOTE: In tropical countries such as India, where the room temperature can become quite warm, judge whether a hot water bottle will be needed or not. If you feel a heating pad will just make the kittens hot and uncomfortable, it is better to avoid placing one.

Step 4: Stimulating the kitten to pee and poop

Kittens below 3 weeks of age cannot urinate and defecate on their own. They must be stimulated on and around their genital area, in response to which they pee and then poop. A mother cat uses her warm wet tongue to stimulate the kitten’s bowel movements. This must be imitated using a cotton ball / tissue, before or after every feeding to ensure the kittens go to the bathroom properly and no waste is retained in their body.

To stimulate a kitten to go to the bathroom, pick them up with their belly and genitals facing upward (as in the picture) and begin rubbing their genital area in small circular motions/ lengthwise motions. Maintain a firm pressure, but do not be harsh, which will cause them to become sore. The kittens will begin peeing drop wise or in spurts depending on how old they are, in response to the stimulation. You can place a newspaper under the kitten to catch any wayward drops of urine. I have found that soft, absorbent tissues are the best to soak up urine. If the urine is dark yellow and foul smelling the kitten may be dehydrated.

source: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KExOXnZHt50/maxresdefault.jpg

Even after he or she stops peeing, continue stimulating for a couple of seconds as they sometimes will poop after peeing. Wipe their bum thoroughly with wet wipes to avoid urine scald and to keep them clean and tidy. Frequency of pooping for neonatal kittens is once a day at minimum or once every other day. If they were starving before they came to you it is possible they will not have regular bowel movements until they are consistently fed for a period.

The consistency of a healthy kitten’s poop will be soft, but firm and with definite log shape. The colour can range anywhere from yellow to dark brown. I have found a yellowish brown to be most common. It is not normal for a kitten to pass liquid stools, even after prolonged hand feeding. The feed of the kitten should be modified in such a case (more on that in the feeding section)

source: https://in.pinterest.com/pin/427701295844610989/?lp=true

Personally, I prefer stimulating the kittens to go to the bathroom before I feed them, however it is a common practise to do this after they are fed as well. I prefer doing it prior to a feeding, since I have noticed that they sometimes tend to vomit back up the formula because of the pressure on their tummies that is caused when we hold them to stimulate them. 

TIP: Once a day, thoroughly wipe them down with a wet wipe, including head and gently on the belly as well. This stimulates the mothers tongue and boosts metabolism. Bristles of a clean tooth brush also mimic the texture of a mother cats tongue well.

Step 5: Preparing the formula

Mix one-part formula in 2 parts of warm, safe drinking water. Supplementary drops can be added at this stage. Stir nicely to avoid lump formation.

I have noticed that often a 2:1 dilution ratio is not enough as this results in loose stools. If this occurs, the formula can be diluted in a 3:1 or even 4:1 ratio.

The milk must be warm to the touch. You can check the temperature by shaking a few drops onto your wrist.

NOTE: Checking for dehydration: Twist and pull the skin away from the kitten’s body and observe the time it takes for it to snap back. If the skin remains upright in ridges and doesn’t return to its original position immediately, the kitten may be dehydrated.  In case the kitten is dehydrated substitute the water for Pedialyte, which will help restore the electrolyte balance faster. Pedialyte can even be used if the kittens aren’t dehydrated as it is rich in nutrients.

Step 6: Bottle Feeding

Place the kitten on a flat surface (a table top or stool will do) in a belly down posture. Don’t hold the kitten how you would hold a human baby to nurse. Kittens need to be on their bellies while nursing. Grasp the kittens head, just before the ears and push them back with the thumb and index finger of your non-dominant hand. Simultaneously use your dominant hand to introduce the nipple through the side of the mouth and then straighten it, once it fully enters the kittens mouth. Tip the bottle at a 45-degree angle to facilitate easy flowing of milk. Don’t force the nipple into the kitten’s mouth, rather maintain a slight pull on the bottle away from the mouth which will prompt them to suckle.

source: http://www.kittenlady.org/bottlefeeding/

You can further watch this tutorial to have a better understanding of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebDPivG16HE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dH0uyboY2U

The kitten will push the nipple away from his/her mouth once they have drunk sufficient milk. Doing a second round of feeding after 5-10 minutes is recommended so that their bellies fill completely. Once the kittens are done feeding, you will note their bellies have swelled to a large size. You can refer the following feeding recommendations to see if your kittens are drinking enough for their age.

source: http://www.kittenlady.org/bottlefeeding/

Kittens need to be fed every 2-3 hours up to 3 weeks of age, including in the night. Post this the interval between feeding can go up to 4-5 hours.

TIP: It takes a while, for both the foster parent (especially first timers) and the kitten to adjust to being bottle fed. This can be a frustrating period, but with patience and understanding slowly you will become a pro!

Also, staying awake at odd hours in the night to care for the kittens interferes with one’s sleeping pattern and it is very common for new foster parents to become sleep deprived. To avoid this, try to catch a quick nap during the day as well when the kittens are sleeping. Take care of yourself so that you can take care of your fosters!

Step 7: Burping

Kittens need to be burped post every feeding to expel unwanted air, ingested during bottle feeding. To do this grasp the kitten under the chest in your non-dominant hand and pat him/her firmly on the back for a couple of minutes. You can place a finger of the hand grasping them under the throat, so that you can feel their throat move as they burp. In my experience very rarely will you hear a kitten burp, but with a finger under their throat there is a good chance you will feel it. Do not panic if you don’t feel/hear a burp. Just keep religiously burping them.

source: http://www.communityconcernforcats.org/resources/bottle-babies/

TIP: If the kittens are stimulated to go to the bathroom, fed properly and placed on a warm place within a dark crate they generally go right to sleep. They will begin to meow only generally during the next feeding time.

Sometimes very young kittens miss their mothers terribly and don’t quieten down even after being fed. In such a case, a clean soft toy can be placed in the crate for them to snuggle up to.

WARNING SIGNS TO LOOK OUT FOR:

·      

        Diarrhoea: Quality of kitten poop is a great indicator of their health. Kittens need to be monitored for loose/liquid stools as this can lead to dehydration if not checked.

Remedy: Dilute the formula further, add Digyton if previously not used. Can add a pinch of electrol to their water to combat dehydration.

·         Aspiration: Kittens who are handfed are at a greater risk of aspiration (fluid entering the lungs). Avoid overfeeding and burp the kittens properly after each feed. If the kittens are sneezing/ vomiting milk back up post a feed, it is not a good sign. Please consult a vet in such a situation.

Remedy: Lower the angle of bottle feeding and make it nearly horizontal such that the milk doesn’t flow in a rush into the kitten’s mouth. This can also be avoided by ensuring the hole in the feeding nipple isn’t too large.

·         Kittens suckling on each other: It is very common for kittens in orphaned litters to begin suckling and kneading each other’s bellies and genitals. This may result in scratch wounds and in avertedly stimulating each other to pee.

Be vigilant in looking out for this as if it is left unchecked, aggressive suckling may result in the kittens injuring one another.

Remedy: Pull the kittens off each other if you see them suckling, this behaviour should hopefully reduce with increase in age and if the kittens are fed regularly and have full bellies. Lube or coconut oil may be applied at the scratch wound sites to provide relief.

 Step 8: Litter training

Kittens can be introduced to the litter box at 3 weeks of age.  A good indicator that they are ready is that they will begin peeing/ pooping in their crate between feedings. If this is the case, replace the soiled cloths with clean ones. Wash the soiled ones with a mild detergent, sun dry and then replace in the crate whenever necessary.

Most people recommend getting shallow litter boxes that the kittens can walk into, to begin litter training. However, in my experience I have found that all my fosters prefer a deeper litter box, with good quantity of litter that they can dig up. Try both and proceed with whatever suits your litter.

Please note here that kittens, when initially introduced to the litter may not understand what it is and may try to eat it. Be vigilant and make sure this is avoided. They will soon figure it out.

You can begin litter training the kittens by ripping up one of their urine-soaked newspapers and mixing it with the litter so that they associate that area with their smell. Take the kittens paw and scratch at the litter and help him/her dig. It will take them anywhere between a day to a week to get the hang of the litter, so be patient with them.

About 10-15 minutes after their feeding they may begin pawing at the floor, which is an indicator that they are about to pee. Immediately pick up the kitten and place him/her in the litter tray. In case they pee or poop on the floor, or anywhere else other than the litter, simply clean that area thoroughly with a mild, but effective floor cleaner so that they are unable to detect their urine odour and won’t be tempted to go to the bathroom again there.

Step 9: Weaning

Kittens can be weaned when they are between 4-5 weeks of age. A common sign that the kittens are ready to be weaned is that they will begin chewing on the nipple and you will observe the eruption of their canine teeth into the mouth.

Transitioning from Milk to Wet Food

To begin weaning the kittens, mix a small quantity of kitten wet food with the milk and make a slurry out of it. Pour this into a shallow bowl and place on a newspaper on the floor. Again, the kittens may not immediately understand what the wet food is as they still associate your hands with food. To get them used to eating off the bowl, take a bit of the slurry on your finger and encourage them to lick it off by rubbing some on the corners of their mouth. Slowly bring your finger closer to the bowl and once they catch the smell of the food, they may begin to eat.  

You can begin placing a bowl of clean drinking water in the kittens’ room at this stage.

TIP: It is recommended to introduce the kittens to gravy based wet foods, rather than meat-chunks-in-jelly based ones as the kittens will have trouble consuming the latter initially. In case only the second type of wet food is available, one can manually mash it to make it easier for the kittens to eat.

Transitioning from Wet Food to Dry Food

Soak some pellets of dry food in a container of warm water and place in the fridge. During every feeding, begin mixing increasing quantities of dry food with the wet food paste until all the wet food is replaced over a period.

Gradually transition from soaked dry food pellets in wet food to un-soaked pellets. Once they are comfortable with eating un-soaked dry food, you can leave a bowl of dry food out for them and provide wet food only at defined meal intervals (not recommended more than once a day). 

NOTE: At every point in the weaning process (which may last for up to a week – transitioning from milk to wet food) the kittens’ stools must be closely monitored. In case the kittens develop diarrhoea, go back to feeding the kittens what they were eating previously and only resume the weaning process when their stools return to a normal consistency. Feel free to add Digyton to the kittens’ food to supplement their digestion.

Deworming and Vaccinations

Consult your veterinarian about the optimal time to deworm and vaccinate your kittens.

Typically, however kittens should be dewormed every 2 weeks from 6 weeks of age until 3 months, and then monthly until they are 6 months old.

They can be vaccinated above 45 days of age.

TIP: In case of external parasites like fleas, since the kittens are too young to be administered either topical or oral medication to combat fleas the best thing to do would be to brush them regularly with a clean tooth brush and manually pick off and kill fleas as and when you observe them. Keep changing the bedding regularly and in cases of extreme infestation, consult your veterinarian and ask them to recommend a mild soap that can be used to bathe the kitten to eliminate fleas.

This tutorial can be consulted for directions on how to bathe the kitten, please exercise the utmost caution while doing this and make sure to dry the kitten thoroughly afterward.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcDqHFAf0aU

Congratulations! You have just raised your first litter of kittens! This process took hard work, commitment, and lots and lots of patience. Now you have healthy, independent kittens who will be ready to go to their forever homes soon so that you can open your arms to another litter and start all over again 😉 

source: https://humanityworldorder.wordpress.com/2016/09/20/blood-is-blood/5507692-cat-m/